Simulation of Wave Transformation in Finite Depth by Wave-Current Interaction

Abstract

Waves in coastal water propagate very often on currents driven by tidal force or wind. Wave-current interaction due to strong ambient currents causes to alter wave properties such as wave height, wave profiles and wave spectrum. A number of studies have been dealt with the change of a wave spectrum due to the presence of a current based on the conservation of wave action (Booij, 1981; Kirby, 1984; Hedges et al., 1985; Suh et al., 1994).The nearshore wave power can be modulated by tide. Wave observation for the long period(more then 10 years) has been conducted around the Korean coast. Jungrae is one of those observation site(submerged rock) located in Southern open sea of Korea. The tidal modulation of incident wave height was shown at the wave measurement data in Jungrae. The western and southern sea of Korea is a highly macrotidal environment with approximately 9m of spring tidal range. We need 2D wave measurement including wave direction and current data instead of originally 1D wave data to analyze tidal modulation of incident wave height. Wave and current observation was carried out at the Jungrae using ADCP and pressure gauge. Most important measurement variable is the direction of the tidal current and wave. The measurement result represents increasing of wave height during rising tide.r of studies have been dealt with the change of a wave spectrum due to the presence of a current based on the conservation of wave action (Booij, 1981; Kirby, 1984; Hedges et al., 1985; Suh et al., 1994).The nearshore wave power can be modulated by tide. Wave observation for the long period(more then 10 years) has been conducted around the Korean coast. Jungrae is one of those observation site(submerged rock) located in Southern open sea of Korea. The tidal modulation of incident wave height was shown at the wave measurement data in Jungrae. The western and southern sea of Korea is a highly macrotidal environment with approximately 9m o