Non-hydrostatic modeling of wave transformation and rip current circulation : A case study for the Haeundae beach, Korea

Title
Non-hydrostatic modeling of wave transformation and rip current circulation : A case study for the Haeundae beach, Korea
Author(s)
윤종주; 전기천; 심재설
KIOST Author(s)
Jun, Kicheon(전기천)
Publication Year
2014-06-23
Abstract
Haeundae beach in Busan is one of the most popular places in South Korea. But there is also a danger by occurrence of irregular fast moving rip current. To investigate a dominant mechanism of rip current in this area, the numerical simulation was carried out using non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) with observed wave and topographical data. SWASH based on the non-linear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure model can resolve many of the relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as relatively new time-domain dispersion, shoaling, refraction, dissipation and nonlinearity. SWASH is very likely to be competitive with the Boussinesq-type wave models in terms of robustness and the computational resource (MPI parallel processing) required to provide reliable model outcomes in wave and flow conditions. In this paper, the applicability of SWASH for modeling wave transformation and rip current circulation near the shallow foreshore is mainly investigated. Assuming that rip current dynamics are controlled by the combination of variations in wave dissipation and morphological flow constriction, we tested the effects of wave parameters, such as wave heights, wave periods, wave directions, and change of tidal conditions, on rip current generations. The model results showed good agreements with previous study including measured data in this area.on was carried out using non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) with observed wave and topographical data. SWASH based on the non-linear shallow water equations with non-hydrostatic pressure model can resolve many of the relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as relatively new time-domain dispersion, shoaling, refraction, dissipation and nonlinearity. SWASH is very likely to be competitive with the Boussinesq-type wave models in terms of robustness and the computational resource (MPI parallel processing) required to provide reliable model outcomes in wave and flow conditions. In this paper, the applicability of SWASH for modeling wave transformation and rip current circulation near the shallow foreshore is mainly investigated. Assuming that rip current dynamics are controlled by the combination of variations in wave dissipation and morphological flow constriction, we tested the effects of wave parameters, such as wave heights, wave periods, wave directions, and change of tidal conditions, on rip current generations. The model results showed good agreements with previous study including measured data in this area.
URI
https://sciwatch.kiost.ac.kr/handle/2020.kiost/26147
Bibliographic Citation
The 3rd International Rip Current Symposium, pp.101, 2014
Publisher
Lifesaving Society Korea
Type
Conference
Language
English
Publisher
Lifesaving Society Korea
Related Researcher
Research Interests

Marine meteorology,Wave modeling,Storm surge,해양기상,파랑모델링,폭풍해일

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