파랑과 조류의 상호작용을 고련한 파랑류 시뮬레이션

Abstract

To prevent the beach erosion and to support the beach restoration project, the Korean government has initiated the development of coastal erosion control technology since 2013. As a part of this project, the waves and currents have been observed in the nearshore and offshore of the Haeundae beach, which has an about 1.6 km long coastline and about 50 m wide sand beach facing the Korea Strait, for two consecutive years, to understand the coastal process and sediment transport. In this study, a numerical simulation using a wave and current coupled model (ROMS-SWAN) was conducted for determining the wave-induced current during the Typhoon DANAS and seasonal swell waves (Hs : 2.5 m, Tp: 12 s), for better understanding of the coastal process near the surfzone. By comparing the measured and simulated results, we found that cross-shore current during summer is mainly caused by the eddy produced by the wave-induced current near the beach, which in turn,is generated by the strong waves coming from the SSW and S directions. During other seasons, longshore wave-induced current is produced by the swell waves coming from the E and ESE directions. The wave-induced current simulated by ROMS-SWAN generates longshore current heading west toward Dong-Back Island, West end of the beach, during all the seasons and eddy current toward Mipo-Port, East end of the beach, in Summer which is well matched with the observed residual current wierved in the nearshore and offshore of the Haeundae beach, which has an about 1.6 km long coastline and about 50 m wide sand beach facing the Korea Strait, for two consecutive years, to understand the coastal process and sediment transport. In this study, a numerical simulation using a wave and current coupled model (ROMS-SWAN) was conducted for determining the wave-induced current during the Typhoon DANAS and seasonal swell waves (Hs : 2.5 m, Tp: 12 s), for better understanding of the coastal process near the surfzone. By comparing the measured and simulated results, we found that cross-shore current during summer is mainly caused by the eddy produced by the wave-induced current near the beach, which in turn,is generated by the strong waves coming from the SSW and S directions. During other seasons, longshore wave-induced current is produced by the swell waves coming from the E and ESE directions. The wave-induced current simulated by ROMS-SWAN generates longshore current heading west toward Dong-Back Island, West end of the beach, during all the seasons and eddy current toward Mipo-Port, East end of the beach, in Summer which is well matched with the observed residual current wi