Analysis of measured nearshore currents using multiple surface drifters in Anmok

Abstract

In this study, the observed nearshore currents measured by small Lagrangian GPS drifters near the surf-zone and submerged breakwaters in Anmok were analyzed to investigate the variability of the wave-induced currents and nearshore surface currents generated by different wave and wind environments. The experiments of the AquaDrifters showed that offshore surface currents in the surf-zone were predominantly developed, especially by strong winds from land, in the opposite direction of the incoming waves. However, onshore surface currents were developed by wave-induced currents generated by the interaction of high waves from offshore with winds having a similar direction as the waves. This measurement is now used to calibrate and validate the coastal sediment modeling system.urrents generated by different wave and wind environments. The experiments of the AquaDrifters showed that offshore surface currents in the surf-zone were predominantly developed, especially by strong winds from land, in the opposite direction of the incoming waves. However, onshore surface currents were developed by wave-induced currents generated by the interaction of high waves from offshore with winds having a similar direction as the waves. This measurement is now used to calibrate and validate the coastal sediment modeling system.