해운대 파랑과 흐름 변동특성 분석 OTHER

Title
해운대 파랑과 흐름 변동특성 분석
Alternative Title
Variability of Waves and Currents in Haeundae Coastal Waters
Author(s)
임학수
KIOST Author(s)
Lim, Hak Soo(임학수)
Publication Year
2015-09
Abstract
In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) in Haeundae are analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of Haeundae coastal waters. The seasonal variability of wave is analysed using AWAC observation at station BS2, located at the water depth of 22 m measured during from July 2013 to February 2015. In spring and summer, relatively week waves from the SSW and S directions were generated by southwesterly winds and typhoon, whereas in fall and winter, strong waves were predominant coming from the E and ESE directions generated by northeasterly winds and swell waves from East Sea. The estimated residual currents with moving average on the data with fortnightly data windows (MSf) show that the directions of nearshore currents at BS3 and BS4 which are located near the ends of the west and east of beach head toward SW and E in the opposite directions driven by wave-induced current. In the offshore, the residual currents at BS2 constantly flow ENE direction except in summer. This long-term observed wave and current data is also used to validate sediment transport modeling in Haeundae for developing coastal erosion control system.
ISSN
2288-7903
URI
https://sciwatch.kiost.ac.kr/handle/2020.kiost/1523
Bibliographic Citation
한국연안방재학회지, v.2, no.3, pp.119 - 130, 2015
Publisher
(사)한국연안방재학회
Keywords
Haeundae; AWAC observation; wave variation; residual current; beach erosion
Type
Article
Language
Korean
Publisher
(사)한국연안방재학회
Related Researcher
Research Interests

Coastal Disaster Prevention,Coastal Erosion,Coastal Ocean Modeling,연안재해방재,연안침식,연안해양모델링

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