Nonlinear dispersion effect on wave transformation

Abstract

A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper, which can overcome the limitation of the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple (1986). and which has a better approximation to Hedges' empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges (1987). Kirby and Dalrymple (1987) for shallow waters. The new dispersion relation is simple in form, thus it can be used easily in practice. Meanwhile, a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion and other and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given. By use of the explicit approximation to the new dispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinenr effect, a mathematical model is obtained, and it is applied to laboratory data. The results show that the model developed with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quite well.