Field observation and modeling of wave set-up on a macrotidal beach: the Malipo Experiment SCIE SCOPUS

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Title
Field observation and modeling of wave set-up on a macrotidal beach: the Malipo Experiment
Author(s)
Choi, Jin-Yong; Park, Jun-Yong; Cho, Kyoung-Ho; Hyun, Sang-Kwon; Yoo, Jeseon; Lee, Dong-Young; Jun, Ki-Cheon
KIOST Author(s)
Choi, Jin Yong(최진용)Park, Jun Yong(박준용)Yoo, Jeseon(유제선)Jun, Kicheon(전기천)
Alternative Author(s)
최진용; 박준용; 조경호; 유제선; 이동영; 전기천
Publication Year
2013
Abstract
Korea Research Ocean & Development Institute (KORDI: now renamed the Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology, KIOST) conducted a field observation experiment (the Malipo Experiment) using a variety of wave gages and current meters simultaneously at the Malipo Beach, South Korea, from December 2009 to March 2010 in order to understand the coastal processes in a macrotidal environment. The Malipo Beach has a typical macrotidal beach environment characterized by a very gentle beach slope of 1/50 and strong tidal currents corresponding to the extreme tidal range of 7 m. As a part of this program, we observed the intertidal-zone wave set-up using a wave-rider buoy moored at 20 m water depth and seven pressure-type wave gages perpendicularly aligned to the shore at the intertidal zone for 17 days beginning from December 17th, 2009 in order to understand wave breaking and set-up characteristics in the macrotidal environment. Based on the observation data analysis, the relationship between the wave set-up and wave height at offshore (H-s,H-0) is eta= 0.11H(s,0) showing that influence of alongshore tidal currents on the wave set-up was negligible. It was analyzed that, however, wave set-up might be influenced by shore-normal currents. The wave set-up at the study site was smaller than previous researches. It might result from its low breaking index and the wave characteristics of short wave period and wide-spreading directional spectra at the study site. Results of model simulation by combining a wave model with a circulation model showed that simulated wave set-up heights were generally lower than the measurements.
ISSN
0749-0208
URI
https://sciwatch.kiost.ac.kr/handle/2020.kiost/3289
DOI
10.2112/SI65-032.1
Bibliographic Citation
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH, pp.183 - 188, 2013
Publisher
COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
Keywords
Malipo Beach; wave breaking index; the combined wave-tide simulation
Type
Article
Language
English
Document Type
Article; Proceedings Paper
Publisher
COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
Related Researcher
Research Interests

Operational Oceanography,Numerical Modeling,운용해양,수치모델링

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