Characteristics of Wave Properties in the Macro-tidal Surf Zone Observed by Remote Imaging Methods

Characteristics of Wave Properties in the Macro-tidal Surf Zone Observed by Remote Imaging Methods
유제선; 이동영; 김상익; 김선정
KIOST Author(s)
Yoo, Je Seon(유제선)
Publication Year
Most of earlier field studies on nearshore wave processes have been conducted at the areas of wave dominant coastal environments in simple bathymetric conditions in which non-wave-induced currents such as tide-induced currents are negligible. Whereas, intensive field experiments at a macro-tide environment (i.e. the Malipo sand beach located in the west coast of Korea, having a wide inter-tidal range spanning up to 1 km in the seaward direction) were recently carried out in winter seasons (December, 2008 and 2009 (planned)) to investigate the complicated interactions of coastal waves, coastal currents, and nearshore bathymetries. Particularly, the characteristics of shallow water wave properties (i.e. wavelength, wave period, and wave celerity) in interaction with the tidal currents and nearshore bathymetries were analyzed here using the in situ measurements and remotely recorded nearshore image data, and compared to the theoretical wave formulations such as shallow water dispersion relations and shallow water celerity theories. Technically, the transformations of the wave properties in and near the surf zone were quantified in the cross-shore direction by tracking individual waves in the 2-D (spacetime) cross-shore image timestacks generated along a 1-D cross-shore transect in the image sequences determined through the locations of the in situ sensors.
Bibliographic Citation
2010 AGU Ocean Sciences Meeting, pp.GO43A-0, 2010
American Geophysical Union
American Geophysical Union
Related Researcher
Research Interests

Coastal disaster observation and prediction,Coastal numerical modeling,Coastal remote sensing,연안침식 등 연안재해 관측 및 예측,연안 파랑 및 해수유동 수치모델링,연안 원격탐사

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