TIDAL EFFECTS ON BREAKING-WAVE ATTENUATIONS ON A MACRO-TIDAL BEACH

Abstract

The intertidal zones in macro-tidal environments are characterized by rapid change of water depths in time and space with a large tidal range. Such tidal cycles may considerably contribute to specific hydrodynamic and sedimentary processes observed on the intertidal flat.Macro-tidal sand beaches with little mud accumulations are frequently developed in the west coast of Korea. The macro-tidal beaches experience seasonal variations in beach processes. In summer, typically, incident offshore waves tend to be mostly small and under the influence oftropical high atmospheric pressures, while large waves by NW winds dominate the coast in winter. The larger winter waves are responsible for extensive erosion processes along the intertidal coast, causing seaward transports of subaerial sands.This study was conducted to investigate and characterize nearshore hydrodynamics in a macro-tide environment including surf-zone wave dynamics, which induce beach erosions and sediment transports in inter-tidal shallow water areas.observed on the intertidal flat.Macro-tidal sand beaches with little mud accumulations are frequently developed in the west coast of Korea. The macro-tidal beaches experience seasonal variations in beach processes. In summer, typically, incident offshore waves tend to be mostly small and under the influence oftropical high atmospheric pressures, while large waves by NW winds dominate the coast in winter. The larger winter waves are responsible for extensive erosion processes along the intertidal coast, causing seaward transports of subaerial sands.This study was conducted to investigate and characterize nearshore hydrodynamics in a macro-tide environment including surf-zone wave dynamics, which induce beach erosions and sediment transports in inter-tidal shallow water areas.