Variability of wave-induced current considering wave-tide interaction in Haeundae

Abstract

The Haeundae, located at the southeastern end of the Korean Peninsula, is a famous beach which has approximately 1.6 km long coastline with a 70 m wide. The beach has been repeatedly eroded by the swell waves by Typhoons in summer and waves coming from East Sea in winter. The Korean government has been recently conducting beach restoration project including beach nourishment (620,000 m3) and two submerged breakwaters near both end of the beach along with 5-year term R&D project, development of coastal erosion control technology. As a part of the project, we have been measuring waves and currents at the water depth of 22 m, 1.8 km away from the beach using an acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) more than three years consecutively and also measured waves and currents near surf-zone in summer and winter. To understand of beach erosion and sediment transport in Haeundae we seasonally simulated wave-induced currents considering wave-tide interaction using wave-current coupled model comparing with analysed longshore currents measured by AWACs. In this study, the variability of wave-induced currents was simulated to understand the mechanism of coastal processes and sediment transport calibrating and validating with long-term observed waves and currents. We found that cross-shore current near middle of the beach during in summer is mainly caused by the eddy generated by strong wave coming from SSW and S. In August and Win coming from East Sea in winter. The Korean government has been recently conducting beach restoration project including beach nourishment (620,000 m3) and two submerged breakwaters near both end of the beach along with 5-year term R&D project, development of coastal erosion control technology. As a part of the project, we have been measuring waves and currents at the water depth of 22 m, 1.8 km away from the beach using an acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) more than three years consecutively and also measured waves and currents near surf-zone in summer and winter. To understand of beach erosion and sediment transport in Haeundae we seasonally simulated wave-induced currents considering wave-tide interaction using wave-current coupled model comparing with analysed longshore currents measured by AWACs. In this study, the variability of wave-induced currents was simulated to understand the mechanism of coastal processes and sediment transport calibrating and validating with long-term observed waves and currents. We found that cross-shore current near middle of the beach during in summer is mainly caused by the eddy generated by strong wave coming from SSW and S. In August and Win