Seasonal variability of wave and current induced by high waves in Haeundae

Abstract

As a part of the project, we had been measuring waves and currents at a water depth of 22 m, 1.8 km away from the beach using an acoustic wave and current meter (AWAC) continuously for more than four years. On the other hand, we had also measured waves and currents intensively near the surf-zone in summer and winter. In this study, a numerical simulation using a wave and current coupled model (ROMS-SWAN) was conducted for seasonal variability of wave-induced current better understanding of the coastal process near the surf-zone in Haeundae. By comparing the measured and simulated results, we found that beach erosion is mainly caused by longshore wave-induced current generated by high waves coming from S and SSW in summer and swell waves coming from the E and ESE in winter. The longshore current caused by wave induced current is heading west toward Dong-Back Island during in winter but longshore current caused by eddy current is flow toward Mipo-Port in summer. The simulated wave-induced current with long-term measurement is incorporated in sediment transport modelling for the development of coastal erosion control system in Haeundae.asured waves and currents intensively near the surf-zone in summer and winter. In this study, a numerical simulation using a wave and current coupled model (ROMS-SWAN) was conducted for seasonal variability of wave-induced current better understanding of the coastal process near the surf-zone in Haeundae. By comparing the measured and simulated results, we found that beach erosion is mainly caused by longshore wave-induced current generated by high waves coming from S and SSW in summer and swell waves coming from the E and ESE in winter. The longshore current caused by wave induced current is heading west toward Dong-Back Island during in winter but longshore current caused by eddy current is flow toward Mipo-Port in summer. The simulated wave-induced current with long-term measurement is incorporated in sediment transport modelling for the development of coastal erosion control system in Haeundae.