Variability of Wave-induced Current Analyzed with Intensive Field Measurements in the Coastal Waters of Anmok

Abstract

Wave-induced currents at Anmok, located on the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, are one of the main causes of beach erosion related to high waves. Coastline changes induced by beach erosion and deposition are predominantly caused by sediment transport in the surf zone. This sediment transport is generated by wave induced currents and depends on the wave height and direction. To understand beach erosion processes and the sediment transport mechanisms, field measurements of beach elevation and water depth were conducted for one month in winter 2015-2016. Using AWAC, ADP, VECTOR, and Aquadopp Profiler with OBS, intensive observations were made of waves, currents, and sediment transport in the surf zone. Wave and current variations were simultaneously analyzed at a water depth of approximately 18 m (W1) using long-term deployed AWAC data. Wave statistical analysis at station W1 shows that high waves from the NNE and NE are dominant in winter due to strong northeasterly winds from the NE. However, in summer, high waves coming from the NE and ENE are prevalent due to seasonal winds from the E and SE. By analyzing currents observed in the surf zone with waves, we found that a cross-shore current is generated by high waves, predominantly in winter, with incoming waves normal to the shoreline. Following the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents are separated into SE or NW directions depending on high waves come from the NNE or ENE, respectively. The variations of wave-induced currents caused by incoming wave height and direction accounts for the observed beach erosion and sediment transport, which in turn leads to beach cusp formation and crescentic sand bar migration during high wave periods.