Observation of nearshore crescentic sandbar formation during storm wave conditions using satellite images and video monitoring data

Abstract

Crescentic nearshore sandbars (CNSBs) that are observed in the shallow waters (< 10 m) of sandy beaches are important for understanding coastal dynamics because of their strong interaction with nearshore circulation. However, their formation, originating from shore-parallel straight nearshore sandbars (SNSBs), has rarely been observed in the field because their occurrence is typically short (less than a week). In this study, a process in which a nearly SNSB changed into a fully developed CNSB was observed using satellite images, field surveys, and video monitoring data at a sandy beach in South Korea. Freely available Sentinel-2 satellite images and the bathymetry data measured by echosounders were used to find out formation of an SNSB system after attack of Typhoon Tapah in September 2019 and that the SNSB changed to a CNSB in February 2020. The process was narrowed down using video monitoring data and hydrodynamic measurements, observing that two storm waves with maximum wave heights of >3 m developed in the site over a one-month period in January 2020 when the CNSB formed. The first storm wave had a sharp peak wave height that reached ~5 m and lasted ~2 days. The second storm wave had lower wave energy but several peak waves of ~4 m height and a total storm period of ~6 days. During both storm periods, the infragravity wave energy increased and strong (>0.5 m/s) offshore and longshore (northwest) currents developed for ~1 day and ~ 3 days for the first and second storm respectively. The results from video monitoring data show that a nearly developed SNSB system transformed into a weakly developed CNSB system after the first storm when alongshore variability on the nearly SNSB was intensified to become horns and bays of the weak CNSB. During the second storm, the CNSB system fully developed as the horns moved further onshore and the bays further offshore shaping the clear horn and bay pattern. This indicates that positive feedback between the flows and sediments played a key role for the formation of the CNSB and, therefore, the self-organization mechanism might be appropriate to describe the process during the two storm periods. Specifically, the high infragravity wave energy and strong quasi-steady currents were important because they could trigger the development of rip channels during the first storm whereas the channels were further strengthened by the long consistency of currents during the second storm. © 2021 Elsevier B.V.