한국 연안에서 관측한 장주기 해변 변동

Abstract

Objectives(s) Understanding of tide and wind waves is well advanced with accumulation of field observation data obtained from tide and wave monitoring systems. However, our understanding on the long waves besides tide is limited due to lack of field observation data. Recently, the wave monitoring program conducted by Korea Ocean Research and Development Institutes (KORDI) has been expended to include continuous monitoring of all the frequency range of waves. By decomposing various spectrum of waves with different wave period, characteristics of long waves can be analysed and understood together with wind waves and tides. Material & Method(s) The wave data of subsurface pressure data sampled every 0.5 second interval continuously at several locations with minimal local effect around Korea such as Anmado, Ilhayng-cho, Joongrae, Hongdo, Wangdol-cho and Sangjung-cho were analysed both in time and spectral domain. The wind wave and tide components are filtered out to get long wave data from which the detailed characteristics of the long wave could be analysed and evaluated. Result(s) The characteristics of long waves detected from continuous wave data are analysed and evaluated together with meteorological data, wind wave and tide data so that possibility of prediction of the occurrence, intensity, wave period of long wave can be evaluated. The long wave data measured from wave monitoring stations are compared with the long waves detected from the tidal stations of National Oceanographic Research Institute(NORI) located mostly at local area such as inside the harbour to evaluate the transformation of long waves in the coastal waters. Conclusion(s) Our understanding on the occurrence of the long waves are not enough to be able to predict various processes related to the long waves in the coastal waters. More field observation data need to be accumulated and analysed.