조석이 파랑변형에 미치는 영향 실험

Abstract

Morphological beach changes in a macro-tidal environment are here considered in association with quantities of beach hydrodynamics such as nearshore wave transformation, water levels, and wave run-up through laboratory experiments.Laboratory experiments were conducted in two-dimensional glass-walled wave flume (45m long, 0.7m wide and 1.5m deep) at Kwandong University, Korea. Piston type wave generator can make regular and irregular waves with active absorption. Four capacitance wave gages and five ultrasonic wave gages were installed to collect water surface elevation at different cross-shore location. Quantities of breaking wave heights, wave runup and setup in the nearshore were computed from bursts of the rectified version of video data collected by the side-looking cameras. The quantified Results were compared with the in-situ measurements. The effects of currents on the beach hydrodynamic quantities were discussed with comparisons with empirical formulas suggested from the previous experimental studies carried out in micro-tidal environments.ory experiments were conducted in two-dimensional glass-walled wave flume (45m long, 0.7m wide and 1.5m deep) at Kwandong University, Korea. Piston type wave generator can make regular and irregular waves with active absorption. Four capacitance wave gages and five ultrasonic wave gages were installed to collect water surface elevation at different cross-shore location. Quantities of breaking wave heights, wave runup and setup in the nearshore were computed from bursts of the rectified version of video data collected by the side-looking cameras. The quantified Results were compared with the in-situ measurements. The effects of currents on the beach hydrodynamic quantities were discussed with comparisons with empirical formulas suggested from the previous experimental studies carried out in micro-tidal environments.