Variations of Nearshore Currents induced by Seasonal Waves in Haeundae SCIE SCOPUS

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Title
Variations of Nearshore Currents induced by Seasonal Waves in Haeundae
Author(s)
Kim, Mujong; Lim, Hak Soo; Do, Jong-Dae; Kim, Sun-Sin; Lee, Hee Jun; Shim, Jae-Seol
KIOST Author(s)
Lim, Hak Soo(임학수)Do, Jong Dae(도종대)Lee, Hee Jun(이희준)
Publication Year
2018-05
Abstract
Haeundae, located on the southeastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is a famous sand beach with a 1.6 km long, 70 m wide coastline. It suffers from wave-induced beach erosion in both summer and winter. For beach restoration, the Korean government has conducted beach nourishment (620,000 m(3)), and installed submerged breakwaters at both ends of the beach. Despite these efforts, the beach is still vulnerable to erosion caused by high waves. To understand beach erosion processes and sediment transport mechanisms, the government initiated an R&D project for the development of coastal erosion control technology since 2013. As part of the project, we have measured over three years of AWAC measurements at a water depth of 22 m and 1.8 km from the beach. Intensive measurements of wave, current, sediment transport near the surf-zone in summer and winter have been made using AWAC, VECTOR, and ADV with OBS. Analyses of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in the surf-zone have shown that cross shore currents in summer are mainly induced by strong waves from the SSW or S that propagate to the beach due to wave breaking and shoaling effects on the reef near the beach. However, longshore currents in winter are induced by high waves from the E or ESE that propagate to the shoreline by diffraction at the east coastline. Eroded sand in summer returns along the beach by cross-shore and weak longshore currents induced by waves from the SSW or S. However, suspended sand in winter is moved to the west by strong longshore currents induced by waves from the E or ESE. Due to its pocket beach shape, beach erosion and sediment transport are caused by variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves.
ISSN
0749-0208
URI
https://sciwatch.kiost.ac.kr/handle/2020.kiost/2113
DOI
10.2112/SI85-311.1
Bibliographic Citation
JOURNAL OF COASTAL RESEARCH, pp.1551 - 1555, 2018
Publisher
COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
Subject
MODEL
Keywords
Wave-induced current; wave-current interaction; seasonal variation; sediment transport; beach erosion
Type
Article
Language
English
Document Type
Article; Proceedings Paper
Publisher
COASTAL EDUCATION & RESEARCH FOUNDATION
Related Researcher
Research Interests

Coastal Disaster Prevention,Coastal Erosion Research,Coastal Ocean Modeling,연안재해방재,연안침식연구,연안해양모델링

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