Estimation of Wave Climate for the study of Coastal Processes
Long term wave climate and water level information is essential for the study of coastal sediment transport and morphology change. Wave and water level information has been generated by means of long-term simulation of wave and storm surge using available meteorological data. After simulation of deep water wave field shallow water climate is produced through shallow water wave transformation. Simple method of shallow water wave statistics is obtained by means of transformation of deep water wave climate. More detained method is by producing time series of wave height for each grid of shallow water area, from which shallow water wave statistics can be obtained through statistic analysis. The methods of estimation of shallow water wave and water level statistics and production of basic information needed for the study of sediment transport and morphology change is introduced and discussed.