장기파랑관측자료를 이용한 진하해수욕장의 계절적 해빈변동 연구

Abstract

To investigate the coastline variation of Jinha Beach, this study analyzed the seasonal wave characteristics using long-term measured wave data (2006 ~ 2014) near Jinha Beach. As a result of the analysis, we found that the wave characteristics of the study area showed high wave height and long wave period as summer season moves to winter season. The XBeach model, which uses analyzed wave data as input source and calculates the wave-induced current, was utilized to determine the correlation between coastline variation and wave-induced current. To find the seasonal sediment transport due to the wave-induced current. we introduced the concept of the wave-induced residual current. The changes of beach area of each section obtained from video monitoring data are in good agreement with those of the wave-induced residual current. The wave-induced residual current considering the seasonal wave direction can be useful to verify the change of beach area.